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Friday, Nov 21, 2008















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On a cross-country ride,
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HOW-TO DEPARTMENT

Choosing a Touring Bike for the Road
by Larry Diskin

We all have different needs and goals. No bike is perfect for everybody. In this article, I aim to give you objective information about various bikes so that you can decide what is best for you.

If you want to own only one bike and use it for a various purposes, there will be some compromise involved. However, if you are like most avid cyclists, you probably have more than one bike and are therefore better prepared for a variety of conditions.

The first step before buying a new bike is to make a list of your needs. Think realistically about how you will use the bike. What type of riding are you planning to do? Are you more interested in comfort or speed? How far will your average ride be? What are your goals (fitness, seeing new things, thrill of riding, etc.)? Who are you planning to ride with and what is the norm in their group? What is the terrain where you plan to ride most? What is your budget?

Glossary of terms:
Loaded touring -- Carrying all of your gear on the bike with you in panniers or a trailer. No vehicle support. Typically means you are camping.
Supported touring -- You are not carrying gear on your bike. It is carried in a vehicle that accompanies you.
Triple chainring -- The crank has three chainrings (front). This adds lower gears for hill climbing. Often called "granny gears."
Drop handlebars -- The kind typically found on road-racing bikes (what Tour de France riders use). Offers the widest variety of hand positions.

LOOKING TO DO SOME LOADED TOURING?

There are certain qualities that make a bike appropriate for loaded touring. Although different styles of bikes can be used, the bike you choose should have the following qualities:

Wheels -- The primary source of breakdowns on a bicycle tour are wheel-related. Professionally hand-built wheels tend to be the most reliable. More spokes usually makes stronger wheels. I recommend a minimum of 36 spokes and a three-cross lacing pattern. Many new bikes come with high-tech, lightweight wheels that have fewer spokes, unconventional lacing patterns, and hard-to-find spokes or parts. These wheels favor weight savings, compromise durability, and are not ideal for loaded touring. Aluminum rims of 22 millimeters or wider offer strength, light weight, and a good surface for braking. They also accommodate wider tires (1-1/4 to 1-3/8 inch) that better absorb road shock and bumps.

Frame -- Durable frames can be made of a variety of materials, including aluminum, steel, and titanium. There is a lot of talk about what material is best, and the fact is, frame construction plays a bigger role in durability than does the material. Look for a frame that is designed to be durable rather than lightweight. Your frame should have clearance for tires at least 28mm wide and fenders. If you are planning to use panniers, the frame should ideally have brazed-on rack mounts. To determine your correct touring frame size, simply straddle the bicycle with your feet flat on floor, and allow between 1/2 inch and 2 inches of clearance between the top tube and your crotch.

Gears -- Gears are measured in gear inches; your bike shop can explain how these are computed. You can also use Sheldon Brown's gear calculator (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/). For loaded touring, a top gear of 95 inches is adequate, and a 22-inch low gear will serve you well on steep climbs. To quickly check your own bike, or when shopping for a new one, look for 24 to 30 teeth on the small chainring (attached to the pedal crank arm), and 30 to 34 teeth on the largest sprocket of the freewheel. The smaller the number of teeth on the small chainring and the greater the number of teeth on the biggest freewheel sprocket, the easier it will be to pedal uphill.

FRAME STYLE OPTIONS
Following is an overview of the strengths and weaknesses of five different styles of bikes.

Traditional Road Touring
Characteristics: Drop handlebars, looks like a lot like a road racing bike but has the following features that make it more appropriate for loaded touring: longer wheelbase for stability, heavier frame for strength, frame clearance to accommodate fenders and wider tires, brazed-on rack mounts on the frame and fork, triple chainring, and V-style or cantilever brakes for added power. Typical wheel size: 700C.
Pros: Classic choice for loaded touring; long-distance comfort; positions body aerodynamically; good mix of speed, comfort, and durability.
Cons: Riding position may be awkward if you are new to bicycling; may be uncomfortable or need modification for people who suffer chronic back or neck pain.
Summary: Designed to bear the extra weight of long-distance loaded touring but also makes a decent bike for casual road riding when you are not carrying a load.

Sport Touring
Characteristics: Often identical to road racing bikes except for the fact that they have a triple chainring. Typical wheel size: 700C.
Pros: Great for long distances at maximum speeds; positions body aerodynamically; performance-oriented; lightweight.
Cons: Often have no frame clearance for fenders or tires wider than 28mm; sacrifice durability in exchange for weight savings; may be uncomfortable for people with chronic back or neck problems.
Summary: These bikes were introduced to fill a niche. They are lightweight and fast handling, but the addition of the triple chainring provides low gearing so that the average cyclist can climb extended hills. These bikes are great for supported touring in hilly terrain but are not ideal for loaded touring.

Hybrid
Characteristics: A combination of a mountain bike and a road bike. Flat or slightly raised straight handlebars. Triple chainring. Usually come with medium width road tires (32-40mm). Typically has rack mounts and enough clearance for fenders. Typical wheel size: 700C.
Pros: Comfortable; upright riding position; great for cruising but can also go the distance; a bit faster than a mountain bike.
Cons: Upright position is not aerodynamic; does not excel in any one category.
Summary: Good for someone new to cycling or someone who likes the upright riding position and added stability of wider tires. Best for paved roads, okay on dirt roads, not great for single-track. Quite versatile overall.

Recumbent
Characteristics: Rider sits on a chair that has a back, with his or her legs out in front rather than underneath. There are many different designs. Wheel and handlebar positions vary. Typical wheel size: varies among models and manufacturers.
Pros: Most comfortable; can be very aerodynamic (especially with a fairing option); great for people with chronic back, neck, or arm pain.
Cons: Climbing is less efficient; unique designs can create more complex mechanics and hard-to-find parts; rider often sits very close to the ground and is harder for drivers to see.
Summary: Recumbents are growing in popularity largely due to their comfort. There are many different designs; some are suitable for loaded touring and some are not. Check with a recumbent specialist to find one to suit you.


Larry Diskin has worked as Events Coordinator in our Tours Department.




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